Hector Mediavilla's PARIS IN AFRICA The Sapeurs of Brazzaville
The arrival of the French to the Congo, at the beginning of the 20th century, brought along the myth of Parisian elegance among the Congolese youth working for the colonialists. Many considered the whiteman to be superior because of their technology, sophistication and elegance. According to the legend, in 1922, G.A. Matsoua was the first–ever Congolese to return from Paris fully clad as an authentic French gentleman, which caused great uproar and much admiration amongst his fellow countrymen. He was the first Grand Sapeur.
Respected and admired in their communities, today’s sapeurs see themselves as artists. Their refined manners and impeccable style in their attire bring a little glamour to their humble surroundings. Each one has his own repertoire of gestures that distinguishes him from the others. They are also after their own great dream: to travel to Paris and to return to Bacongo as lords of elegance.
I began this project in 2003 when I first visited Brazzaville (Congo) to teach local professional photographers within a UE program called “Soutien aux Arts Plastiques” (Support to Plastic Arts). Besides, I wanted to start a documentary project on African daily life that showed a different side to Africa of that we usually see in Western countries.
On a Sunday afternoon, I came across a group of sapeurs at La Détente Café. After such an encounter I investigated at the Centre Culturel Français library where I luckily found a couple of books written on the Congolese Sape. (SAPE states for Society of Ambienceurs and Elegant People). I suddenly understood that it was the subject I was looking for.
To me, it speaks about dignity (“When I dress up and go out to the streets, and people admire me, I forget about all my problems…these are moments of glory that make me immensely happy” says the old Sapeur Lamame), the human desire of being better off and of being remember in the future (“It’s a way of leaving my footprint in the Congolese history” states Allureux). But it also points at the consequences of colonialism in third’s world values (for instance, the Dorado myth of Paris or the importance of the appearance to be accepted).
Sapeurs stand for an exquisite morality, but as they say “There can only be Sape when there is peace” (a sapeur is by definition a non-violent person; in a country that has suffered 3 civil wars since its independence in 1960).
After 4 trips to Brazzaville and some to Paris, I strongly believe it’s not a superficial topic despite the sapeurs’ obsession for designer brands, their particular aesthetic rules (one cannot match more than 3 colors if one want to be elegant or you cannot have your hat on after 6 PM), the illogic of spending so much money in something “superficial” (clothes) instead of investing in more basic things like a parcel, a house or a little business.
Congolese are considered to be the most elegant among Africans and as many sapeurs proudly say:” The white man invented the clothes but we make an art of it”.
Hector Mediavilla is a Barcelona, Spain based artist and is a Juror's Choice in Center's 2010 Project Competition
